Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Week 4: Rhino Time and History Lesson




My Labor Day was spent with some of the only rhinos in Botswana, as well as a giraffe, a few Zebras, and a whole host of Impala. Khama Rhino Sanctuary protects most if not all of the rhinos left in Botswana. A Rhino’s tusk is very valuable in the eyes of poachers and thus the rhinos in Botswana have been hunted to near extinction. However, the remaining ones are being protected and were part of my very first “safari” experience. Finally my experiences match one of the stereotypes people have of my time in Africa and admittedly the day reminded me of the Lion King and I couldn’t help but keep my eye out for Timone and Pumba. A wart hog did run across our path and I have no doubt it was some relation of Pumba’s. The whole experience was a bit surreal and I am continuously in awe of the landscape, which I find breath taking.

Monday morning may have been devoid of animals but it was full of culture and a very knowledgeable man from the Serowe Museum. For 30 Pula (around 4 USD) I was able to get the inside scoop on Serowe, the current president of Botswana (Ian Khama), the British-Botswana relationship, and a whole host of other interesting tidbits. As a recent history grad, I was nerding out and loving every minute. My next step is to become best friends with this man so I can learn more. In the mean time since I think history is so important here are a few fun bits. This is all based on my notes from the Museum and I have not fact checked any of it so take it with a healthy dose of skepticism as all historical “facts” should be digested.

In 1895 a delegation from Botswana went to Britian to ask for protection. In 1885 Britian declared Botswana a protectorate. Clearly something does not add up here however, it appears that the British and Batswana had an overall positive relationship. The British were in Botswana to protect the country not to develop it. Then in 1966 the British peacefully left Botswana and only a few years later diamonds were discovered. One can only imagine how peaceful the evacuation of the British would have been if the diamonds were discovered a few years earlier. According to my host mom this signifies how good god is. I on the other hand think a handful of people were sitting on some important information biding their time… but that’s just speculation.  On another note I was able to see the author Bessie Head’s type writer and learn more about her. I recommend looking her up since she is one impressive lady.  Botswana may not conjure images of being a world player, however, in 1920 Botswana gave food aid to countries in eastern Europe who were experiencing famine, including Serbia and Poland. The tour guide was a fountain of knowledge and among some of my favorite bits of his wisdom included, “I don’t know why men make war, it always brings ugly things.” Although that is simplistic I find myself in agreement with him, perhaps that’s why I am in the Peace Corps.

I feel a little daunted by the use of possessives in Setswana but hopefully that will be abetted with time or I will simply denounce all of my possessions because I do not know how to say they are mine, at least in a timely fashion.

Personal space has a different meaning here and lends itself to some interesting situations. My host mom and a handful of her relatives were visiting the grave site of her parents so we all pilled into my host mom’s pick up.  I found myself in the backseat with her son-in-law, his three year old son, and my host mom’s sister. Although there were seats for all of us, with the three year old on his dads lap, we were definitely cozy. My host moms sister was on my right and would fluctuate from holding my hand and inadvertently( or perhaps lovingly) stroking/tickling the inside of my knee. Space was at a premium so it may have just been where her hand fell but I have my suspicions it was meant in a loving way, regardless it was quite difficult not to kick and laugh but instead smile back as she continued to cuddle me. My personal bubble is definitely getting smaller.

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