My Labor Day was spent with some of the only rhinos in
Botswana, as well as a giraffe, a few Zebras, and a whole host of Impala. Khama
Rhino Sanctuary protects most if not all of the rhinos left in Botswana. A
Rhino’s tusk is very valuable in the eyes of poachers and thus the rhinos in
Botswana have been hunted to near extinction. However, the remaining ones are
being protected and were part of my very first “safari” experience. Finally my
experiences match one of the stereotypes people have of my time in Africa and
admittedly the day reminded me of the Lion King and I couldn’t help but keep my
eye out for Timone and Pumba. A wart hog did run across our path and I have no
doubt it was some relation of Pumba’s. The whole experience was a bit surreal
and I am continuously in awe of the landscape, which I find breath taking.
Monday morning may have been devoid of animals but it was
full of culture and a very knowledgeable man from the Serowe Museum. For 30
Pula (around 4 USD) I was able to get the inside scoop on Serowe, the current
president of Botswana (Ian Khama), the British-Botswana relationship, and a
whole host of other interesting tidbits. As a recent history grad, I was
nerding out and loving every minute. My next step is to become best friends
with this man so I can learn more. In the mean time since I think history is so
important here are a few fun bits. This is all based on my notes from the
Museum and I have not fact checked any of it so take it with a healthy dose of
skepticism as all historical “facts” should be digested.
In 1895 a delegation from Botswana went to Britian to ask
for protection. In 1885 Britian declared Botswana a protectorate. Clearly
something does not add up here however, it appears that the British and
Batswana had an overall positive relationship. The British were in Botswana to
protect the country not to develop it. Then in 1966 the British peacefully left
Botswana and only a few years later diamonds were discovered. One can only
imagine how peaceful the evacuation of the British would have been if the
diamonds were discovered a few years earlier. According to my host mom this
signifies how good god is. I on the other hand think a handful of people were
sitting on some important information biding their time… but that’s just
speculation. On another note I was
able to see the author Bessie Head’s type writer and learn more about her. I
recommend looking her up since she is one impressive lady. Botswana may not conjure images of
being a world player, however, in 1920 Botswana gave food aid to countries in
eastern Europe who were experiencing famine, including Serbia and Poland. The
tour guide was a fountain of knowledge and among some of my favorite bits of
his wisdom included, “I don’t know why men make war, it always brings ugly
things.” Although that is simplistic I find myself in agreement with him,
perhaps that’s why I am in the Peace Corps.
I feel a little daunted by the use of possessives in
Setswana but hopefully that will be abetted with time or I will simply denounce
all of my possessions because I do not know how to say they are mine, at least
in a timely fashion.
Personal space has a different meaning here and lends itself
to some interesting situations. My host mom and a handful of her relatives were
visiting the grave site of her parents so we all pilled into my host mom’s pick
up. I found myself in the backseat
with her son-in-law, his three year old son, and my host mom’s sister. Although
there were seats for all of us, with the three year old on his dads lap, we
were definitely cozy. My host moms sister was on my right and would fluctuate
from holding my hand and inadvertently( or perhaps lovingly) stroking/tickling
the inside of my knee. Space was at a premium so it may have just been where
her hand fell but I have my suspicions it was meant in a loving way, regardless
it was quite difficult not to kick and laugh but instead smile back as she
continued to cuddle me. My personal bubble is definitely getting smaller.
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