Week 73: Homecoming Number Two

It was hard to leave home but yet I knew I was simply leaving one of my homes to come to a different one. When I arrived at the bus rank in Kanye, the last leg before I would be home in Moshana, I happened to see my friend and her family. We immediately ran up to each other and hugged and I was reminded that I now have family around the world. This friend and her kids have been my support system and I do not know what I would do without them.

Week 71 and 72: Chicago

I spent two weeks at home with my family and it was possibly the best Christmas I have ever had. I appreciated things that I have previously taken for granted and I was reminded of parts of myself that have been hibernating for the last year and a half.  In Botswana everyone has a home village and I have learned that no matter where I am Chicago will always be my home village.

Week 70: My Friend’s Wedding

A dear friend of mine got married this week in Moshana and I had the privilege of attending all eleven hours of the wedding, and I am not being sarcastic it really was a privilege. The day began early, as I went to her house at 7:30am, however, the day began much earlier for others who were cooking since the wee hours. We then went to a district office in Kanye for the exchange of vows and signing of the marriage license. There were 21 other couples exchanging their vows on that day and thus quite a crowd. The traditional outfit for married women involves a blue skirt, white shirt, and a blue plaid blanket over the shoulders. Although there is plenty of variation, one is guaranteed to see a sea of blue plaid at most weddings.  By 12:30 we were on our way back to the village to celebrate. As soon as getting out of the vehicle the wedding party and most guests start doing a two step dance march around the yard. Now I have been to many weddings and done this dance just as often, yet somehow the seemingly simple steps require my full concentration and I can guarantee I look a fool in such a way that my fellow wedding goers don’t, I still don’t understand this. Next there are speeches and the wedding feast, which everyone should be thankful, I had no part in preparing. The meal consisted of samp (a maiz product), rice, seswa (pounded meat), shredded beets, and butternut squash. The rest of the afternoon was filled with dancing (mostly on the part of the kids), and socializing. I am extremely grateful for this friend and her entire family. When my friend had bridal duties to perform she would make sure I had someone to talk to and to explain things to me. I was never without a buddy, which made for an enjoyable day.

Week 69: The Chicken Killing

In honor of Thanksgiving my landlady gave me a chicken. Now there was some confusion on what this meant. In my mind my land lady was being very generous and killing and cooking a chicken for me. In her mind, she was giving me a chicken as plain as that, and I, as a good village daughter, would know what to do. My city roots shone through in this moment and I was a bit helpless. Lucky for me in Botswana one is never alone and a friend came over to do the dirty work of killing, plucking the feathers, etc. Prior to coming to Botswana I was a vegetarian for seven years and thus was very out of my element. However, I watched the whole process and from “farm to table” (my front yard to my plastic plate on my lap) I think it took 2 hours. Although the whole experience has pushed me back to my vegetarian roots, it was the sentiment that will stay with me and I could not feel more loved than I do by those around me.

Week 68: The Princess of Moshana

November 24^th-30^th

Thanksgiving is quite possibly my favorite holiday and I wanted to share it with my friends in the village.  Going the whole nine yards with a turkey and stuffing seemed a bit too complex so I settled for an apple pie (of the square variety).  A few of my teacher friends and my land lady came over to enjoy the pie which was the perfect way to celebrate with my Moshana family. I tried to explain the saying “As American as Apple Pie” which turned out to be more difficult then I thought so I settled by telling them that they were eating the most American food. The average Motswana doesn’t seem to have as much of a sweet tooth as the average American but luckily my guests all enjoyed the pie and asked me to wait till they arrive to start baking next time.

Earlier in the week I had a meeting with the clinic staff about how we are going to work together next year. Later in the meeting I was encouraging the women to come to the library and borrow books. One of the women claimed she couldn’t read because she didn’t have reading glasses. I asked if she had children, which she confirmed and I told her to have them read to her. She then said that they only watch TV and abuse her, I told her to turn off the electricity and in an attempt at a joke told her to abuse them back. Due to her look of confused horror, I do believe my joke bombed and I accidently encouraged violence…oops!

We had a road safety event in Moshana this week, which was supposed to begin at 6:30 am with a march through the village. Time is a lot more flexible here and thus the boy scouts and I were the only ones to show up at 6:30. When the event did start at 9:30 I was glad to be there because the Kgosi (traditional leader) called attention to my presence and introduced me as the princess of Moshana. I don’t think I have ever been called princess, however, after the event numerous people went out of their way to call me that and I am worried it will stick. However the nickname is a small price to pay for the acceptance and love I feel in the village.

Week 67: Dr Tau o kae? (Where is Dr Tau?)

 November 17^th-23^rd

My annual dentist appointment rolled around this week and I left the village armed with the Dentist’s name and a rough hand drawn map that I could not make heads or tails of. Admittedly I was a bit irked with this minimal amount of information I was given and felt none of the control over my day that I so enjoy. The day started well as I got my favorite bus to the capital and the conductor assured me he knew where I was going and would help me get there, I rested easy for the next hour and a half. Then upon arrival to the bus rank he directed me to the combi I needed. Just to be sure, I double checked with the combi driver to see if his was the right route, he then directed me to another combi, promising that that one was better. A slew of other kindly strangers and combis later I was headed out of the rank sitting next to the combi driver who reassured me he knew where I was going, this was more than I could say for myself and I decided to trust him. Fifteen minutes into the route he asks me where I am going and before I lose my cool, I remember that I really haven’t the faintest and I can’t be angry with him for also not knowing, despite his earlier promises. A few minutes later I decide to get off when I see a sign for a dentist, in hopes it will be mine. As it turns out it was not, but the lovely ladies at the office did know my dentist and my map made perfect sense to them. I left their office armed with a phone number (which I didn’t have before) and a sense of gratitude for all of the people who helped me along the way, even though they did not have to. Even down to finding the right building in the complex and the office when I was in the building, there were friendly faces helping me along. Countries are made up of many individuals but by and large I have found Batswana to be very helpful and willing to assist a stranger, as one of those strangers, I am very grateful. As it turned out I have a cavity and thus have the privilege of making this trek again in two weeks, as fun as it was, I do hope it is a bit simpler next go around, maybe I can even give someone directions to pay it forward.

Week 66: Mid Service Training

Mid-Servicer Training was this week and thus I spent the first half of the week in the Capital with my fellow Bots 14ers. It was great to catch up with some of the members of my cohort that I have not seen since our last training in February and enjoy the amenities such as a hot shower and air conditioning. I am very grateful to be going through this experience with a great group of people, even though by and large our paths do not cross on a regular basis when they do cross I know they understand what I am going through and I them.

One of my best friends in the village is the four year old who lives on my compound. As I type this we are reading a book by Eric Carle interspersed with singing head shoulders, knees and toes. This child has affected my life more than she will ever know and always reminds me to keep it simple, giggle, and sing.